I can’t really put my finger on it, but it’s there. You know the feeling that requires more than one factor to make you feel a certain way?

The culmination of several different emotions hitting you at once and making your soul smile is the best I can describe it.

When you’re surfing, this feeling hits a lot. Whether it’s pulling up to the beach with a couple friends, jumping out of the truck in excitement and throwing your wetsuit on as fast as possible; or simply walking down the beach, board in hand and wading out into the surf.

Last month I drove the Seawall searching for a place to paddle out. The surf was about waist high, maybe a tad bigger with cool offshore winds. So, I parked at my favorite sand bar, put on my full wetsuit, gloves, hood and an extra top under my wetsuit just for good measure and warmth. There wasn’t anybody on the surf, but of course that never lasts too long.

As I was bundled up and covered from head-to-toe in rubber, I made my way down the ramp and onto the sand. I had never been that prepared for cold water in my life, I felt like I was paddling out at the Great Lakes or something. Then it hit me; that feeling.

I was so excited to paddle out in 50-degree water, which sounds weird, but it was a new challenge, a bit exhilarating and I completely loved it.

So there it was, a rush of energy took me into the water and I thought to myself, “this is why I surf, for moments like this.” I didn’t feel the cold until my first wave. I paddled out to the main peak, turned around on the first good looking wave, got hung up at the top, tried to pull in backside and took the lip on my head.

From there I was driven underwater, feeling the ice cold water on my face for the first time until pushing my way back to the surface with a big grin on my face and a hoot leaving my lips. I had just fallen, but didn’t mind a bit.

I proceeded to surf for about two hours and never got cold; I got tired before getting a shiver. A few good friends also paddled out, which made the feeling that much better and kept energy in the water.

I finally caught a final wave, rode it to the beach, walked up to the car and peeled off all that rubber. Halfway through, I looked back at the surf and noticed waves still pouring in and thought about paddling out for a split second, but then the cold air hit my chest and I threw on my jeans and hoodie before cranking the heater and heading home.

With a perma-smile on my face, I had the best feeling inside and was completely happy. I once heard a big wave professional surfer say that his favorite part about big wave riding was the ride home and I would have to completely agree. After surfing for two hours in only waist high surf, that drive home was pretty sweet with accomplishment and stoke.

Though surfing supplies us with these awesome emotions quite often, some days are just a bit different. That day reminded me of why I paddle out in the dead of winter just to catch a few waves; because I love the raw power and presence that Mother Nature and the sport bring.

This is why I surf, for that cold water feeling…